![]() ![]() Preheat your comal or skillet over high heat. Disinfect the tomatillos, chiles and cilantro. Just keep in mind that the longer you char your vegetables, the sweeter and smokier their flavors become as the natural sugars caramelize. There’s no “right way” to tatemar, so have no fear if you’ve never tried the technique. From the boozy barbecues known as carne asadas that happen every weekend in northern Mexico, to the fully decked out modern kitchens of affluent families in the country’s big cities, you’ll find Mexicans toasting and charring the foods that they eat. Today, while this cooking technique is most widely followed in rural communities of central Mexico, you’ll find folks charring foods all across the country. This verb is a combination of two words with distinct etymological histories: tlatla and quemar, which are, respectively, the Náhuatl and Spanish terms for “to burn with fire.” It refers to the process of charring foods on a grill, comal or directly on hot coals to partially cook them and infuse them with a smoky aroma- a uniquely Mexican cooking technique not frequently seen in other parts of the world. When making salsa, cooks in prehispanic Mesoamerica relied on a technique we now know as tatemar. It’s time to let you in on a little secret that’s not really a secret at all. Over the past decade, between eating out, attending cooking classes and experimenting at my home in Mexico City, I think it’s safe to say that I’ve learned a thing or two about salsa. And my regular visits to the city’s taco and antojito stands exposed me to a previously unknown universe of salsas that were nothing like what I had grown up with in California. I began to incorporate ingredients I hadn’t used before, like dried chiles, xoconostle, huitlacoche, avocado leaves, insects and a rainbow of aromatic powders used to make mole and pipián. My cooking style quickly began to evolve to reflect the diverse flavors of the historic capital. My move to Mexico City was a game changer. In fact, whenever I return to California for a visit, I always buy a couple of bottles to bring back to Mexico-which I’m well aware is like bringing sand to the beach. While its flavor isn’t what I’d describe as complex, it remains one of my favorites given its central place in my family food history. Produced by Los Angeles-based Juanita’s Foods, this mild salsa has a pronounced tang of vinegar and notes of cumin. ![]() Instead, we usually relied on a bottle of Pico Pica hot sauce tucked into the refrigerator door. Growing up in California in the 1970s and 80s, my family rarely ate Mexican salsas at home that were made from scratch. ![]() The only limiting factor is, predictably, the imagination of the cook. Some versions include only raw ingredients while other recipes feature ingredients that have been boiled, fried or roasted. While the most common Mexican table salsas are vegetable based (think tomatoes and tomatillos), they can incorporate any and all ingredients-from fruits and nuts to cheese and insects.
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